I am beginning to sew my first underbust corset. I have never sewn a corset before so this will be my first fitting. I decided to use a pattern I found on etsy for $7
This pattern seemed simple enough. It was available for instant download in three sizes: 25″, 27″, 29″ corresponding to the waist. Not a huge amount of variation but I figured I can learn to grade the pattern up or down as needed.
Step One Supply list:
Clover Double Tracing Wheel (or Clover Pen Style Chalk Wheel if you dont have tracing paper)
RED SARAL WAX-FREE Transfer Tracing Paper
108in Roc-Lon Unbleached Muslin Natural Fabric By The Yard
Rotary Cutter (195210-1001) or Scissors
Extra Fine Glass Head Pins (not pictured)
First step is to trace the outline of the pattern on the muslin. As this pattern didnt include seam allowance, it will have to be added during cutting. I am not an accurate cutter, so I traced the stitch lines and will match the stitch lines together in order to make an accurate design. One step I did skip in the muslin process is silk basting. Silk basting is hand stitching the sewing lines with silk threads so that the lines can be seen through both sides of the fabric. I will silk baste my fashion fabric in a later step.
I find that tracing the pieces takes a very long time. It took me an hour to trace and cut the 14 panels required for this corset. The pattern is 7 pieces but you need one of each side. Flip the pattern over to trace the other pieces. Next time I think I will try a chalk wheel to speed up the process. The tracing wheel is better if your pattern has multiple sizes and you dont want to cut off the other sizes. However, if the pattern is already cut in your size, you can use chalk to outline. The red wax paper seems to get very messy, leaving color on the muslin and my fingers. Be sure to mark your notches!! After cutting the muslin, I matched the seam lines and notches and baste sewed the muslin on my machine. To Baste sew on a machine do not back tack your stitch and use the longest length on your machine. Be sure to sew the two sides together at the front even if you are doing a busk or zipper opening. When sewing, sew on top of your tracing lines and match to each side starting with piece 1 to 2 then 2 to 3 and so on. Do this to both sides and then sew both sides together online on the first panel Sewing the front will allow you to check the fit of the garment.
Be sure to check back for Step 2: Fit and Coutil